Sydney’s Chippendale - neighbourhood of galleries, eateries and creative atmosphere

It is difficult to think that back in the days Chippendale neighbourhood used to be rather rundown and unpleasant as in recent years the area has converted to the new upcoming area of Sydney. Today’s Chippendale boasts converted warehouses and factory buildings hosting an abundance of specialty cafes and eateries, galleries and blooming creative energy. The refurbished rows of Victorian terraced homes are now among the most sought-after houses in the inner-city. Nevertheless, despite this evident gentrification, Chippendale still retains that unkempt local charm as well as small suburban character, lots of quiet streets and less noise than some of the more central, more touristic areas.

Galleries and arty vibes

The cultural energy and the artsy vibes of Chippendale can be sensed in the street life. Little galleries are popping up and the art crowds have migrated to the neighbourhood. The White Rabbit Gallery (30 Balfour St) has become a crowd magnet. This private gallery exhibits contemporary Chinese art in different forms, some of which can be quite shocking or at least thought-provoking. Small, independent galleries and design studios are tucked away in little streets, such as Galerie Pompom (27-39 Abercombie Rd) or Nanda/Hobbs Gallery (12-14 Meagher St), but there are also bigger institutes such as The Japan Foundation Gallery (Central Park, 28 Broadway). While meandering around the streets I could also admire graffiti and other street art that act as a form of expression.

Food scene

Chippendale has a thriving, innovative food and beverage scene. Some of the country’s top chefs are migrating to the neighbourhood, offering local fare and Michelin star gastronomic experiences. It’s enough just to look at the menu at Automata (5 Kensington St), Ester (46-52 Meagher St) or Koi Dessert Bar (46 Kensington St) to see all the innovation. Casual and fun-looking coffee shops serve immaculately crafted brews and local bakeries create artisanal loaves and pastries. Spice Alley (Kensington St), a maze of lantern-filled alleyways is a hub of street food. This is where people gather to sample different Asian fares from a multitude of hawker stalls. Although more clinical and polished than its Asian counterparts, it still has that casual, fun and community-orientated feel. My impression was that the neighbourhood really prides itself in their vegan/veggie dishes, however well sourced meat will make the carnivores happy. Tucked away in a small hidden street, LP’s Quality Meats (16 Chippen St) is famous for serving simple smoked and cured meat feast. Combining a deli and a restaurant, it has that old style butcher charm, perfect for a casual, delicious food experience.

Brickfields

One of the reasons I initially ventured to Chippendale was to have breakfast at Brickfields (206 Cleveland St). This artisanal bakery-café has become the neighbourhood favourite despite its tiny size, with only a handful of seats indoors. But there are a couple of tables outside and equally, some patrons opted for a takeaway caffeine fix, munching their flaky croissants on the tree-lined street while catching up. I liked the calm interior filled with natural light and rustic furniture that felt really appropriate to this casual, upcycled neighbourhood. Baked goods are the protagonist at Brickfields. Mouth-watering pastries filled a little display cabinet, freshly baked bread proudly stood on racks and more substantial cooked brunches were crafted in the kitchen at the back. Their sourdough is well known and you can order slices with different fillings – however, at a slightly overpriced rate. I enjoyed mine with some simple cashew butter, and the sourdough was just as it should be; thick, bubbly crust and a fluffy, airy interior. They were paired with an equally good artisanal coffee from a local roaster Mecca, packed with smooth and subtle flavours. Brickfields was a fantastic place to soak up the Chippendale atmosphere and do some people watching.

Something for Jess

One of my top tips for Chippendale would be Something for Jess (27 Abercombie St), a cafe that really encompasses the arty, casual, local flair of the neighbourhood. The place oozes that old patina with mismatched, largely recycled furniture, and pastel blue walls that showcase purchasable, rotating pieces of local art. The menu is full of fresh, vibrant, ecstatic dishes, with an emphasis on wholesome options. Something for Jess also has not-so-naughty, rustic-looking treats; think coldpressed snack bars and vegan muffins. Their single origin coffee is supplied by Melbourne’s Dukes Coffee Roasters. I had a latte to start with that was intense and flavoursome with nutty notes. That was followed by a plate with the most delicious medley of ingredients and flavours; fresh sourdough, flat mushrooms, avocado, turmeric hummus, roasted almonds, kale, arugula. It was mind blowing, definitely scoring very high on my list of top-notch brunches. The place is relatively tiny and it took me two separate occasions to get a table. But the circling around the area and waiting was all worth it as Something for Jess really has a big local soul, offering some wholesome goodness and explosive flavours.

Toby's Estate

Toby’s Estate is an Australian coffee roaster that I knew from Singapore. As I loved the brew and the atmosphere in their Singapore location I had to try their flagship store in Sydney (32-36 City Rd). Although Toby’s Estate may not feel like a proper small indie corner café, possibly because they are spreading out, I did like their Chippendale store as it is a working roaster. The roasting facilities are located behind a glass wall making it an involved coffee experience. They craft both blends as well as rotating single origins, supplying coffee for their own cafes, other businesses as well as for home brewing. The coffee was really smooth and consistent to the quality experienced in Singapore, just as you would expect from a roasting mecca. Food also has a big emphasis here. The menu includes substantial lunches and typical Aussie brunch fares, as well as freshly baked goods. I wanted to grab something easy and my smoked salmon ciabatta really filled that little savoury gap. Although the decoration was a bit of a letdown, feeling pretty dark and dated, the atmosphere was buzzing with lively conversations and laptop tapping students from the nearby uni campus. I hope Toby’s Estate doesn’t expand too much and become one of those characterless chain cafes, losing completely the original flare.

Shops

Although I would not venture to Chippendale for the sole purpose of shopping, there are a few venues where to spend dollars. Kensington Street is the backbone of the neighbourhood, and much more active and energetic than the smaller streets. It hosts a handful of shops and eateries and an entrance to the Spice Alley. I particularly liked the random little novelty shops and businesses tucked between residential and industrial roads, such as Cult Design (21-23 Levey St), or 1930’s inspired hairdresser, Sterling Apothecary (25 Meagher St). If past era aesthetics is your thing, stay at The Old Clare Hotel (1 Kensington St), a local hallmark located in a 1915 heritage building that used to be a brewery and pub. If I return to Sydney I would seriously love to stay in its refurbished rooms with exposed brick walls and retro touches. The Old Clare’s breakfast is provided by the neighbouring Kensington Street Social (3 Kensington St), a restaurant I did not try but have read raving reviews.

Outdoors

The official back garden of the neighbourhood is Victoria Park (Parramatta Rd). It is a 9 hectare open air space with nice spots to sit down, have a picnic or if you fancy a little dip in the water, there is a cool open air pool. It is ideal for families with a playground as well as plenty of room for children to run around wild. What I found interesting was the communal BBQ facilities. Only in Australia, eh?! Grab a coffee from one of the many coffee shops around the neighbourhood and take a break, chill and watch the world go by.

Chippendale really scored high in terms of eateries, coffee shops, atmosphere and urban aesthetics. And these are the elements that come into my mind when I reminisce about this neighbourhood. It’s a fun place to have a lazy stroll and explore its understated industrial charm and quieter, tree-lined side streets. Take a random turn and you may find some fantastic hidden gems and no doubt some good cups of coffee.