Mission - Eclectic, colourful San Francisco neighbourhood

I am drawn to neighbourhoods that are melting pots and have an eclectic aura. San Francisco in general is wholly eclectic; it can be so genteel, vintage and homespun, but equally very hip and modern, and sadly in many parts extremely rough.

One of the areas that exemplify the city’s heterogeneity is Mission. An old neighbourhood with deep Latin roots, this is where Spanish missionaries made home at the end of the 18th century. This Hispanic heritage can be seen in the old Spanish Colonial architecture, thought-provoking street murals and is preserved by dozens of taquerias and Latin eateries and cocktail bars.

The neighbourhood has become very hip in the recent years with new stylish hangouts and beanie-wearing creatives moving into the area. Still, the demography is happily diverse: long time local residents, a large Hispanic community and families of all ages and from every socioeconomic level. And so the streetscape feels very eclectic, inclusive and energetic. Dolores Park is the backbone of the neighbourhood, a beloved community get-together, whether you want to read, have a picnic or take your children to a playground. This is a great place to hangout and get a feel of the neighbourhood with some spectacular views of downtown in the background.

Shopping

Mission offers a whole wave of interesting businesses for browsing. The neighbourhood is proudly independent and little boutiques, bookshops and curiosity parlours dominate. Valencia Street is the main artery of local shopping, while 24th Avenue hosts an amalgam of Latin shops and markets. I liked Super Simple (855 Valencia St) for the most desirable home decor, Dog Eared Books (900 Valencia St) for books, Open Editions (788 Valencia St) for art and design, Aesthetic Union (555 Alabama St) for letterpress items and pretty prints, Aggregate Supply (806 Valencia St) for trendy clothes, and Black & Gold (572 Valencia St) for reclaimed interior items and plants. Luz de Luna (3182 24th St) has everything from Mexican jewellery to art works, from pinatas to Day of the Dead statues. Mission also has a curated supply of second hand and vintage. A great place to shop local products and observe small-batch chocolate being made is Dandelion Chocolate (740 Valencia St), a working factory at the heart of the neighbourhood.

Architectural wonders

For me, the real pull in San Francisco is the architecture, and Mission and the surrounding areas are known for their eclectic architectural wonders. The 1776’s Mission Dolores and multiple Spanish Colonial and Mission Revival style buildings epitomise the Hispanic heritage of the neighbourhood. To contrast these, Mission offers over-the-top Queen Annes, hipster-like Craftsmans, classical Italianate and futuristic Streamline Moderne. I especially enjoyed walking up the hilly, tree-lined residential roads leading towards the neighbouring Noe Valley and Dolores Heights to capture that oh-so-American homespun charm. The hilly views over the rooftops of various neighbourhoods offer a nice respite from the buzzing main drags of the neighbourhood.

Murals

Mission oozes colours and street murals characterise the neighbourhood. The epicentre of colour is Balmy Alley (located off of 24th St). It is one of the best, most concentrated collections of thought provoking murals in the city. Many of these are poignant expressions of human rights and social injustices but also a celebration of Latin American cultures. Another visual testament of the colourful character of the neighbourhood is The Women’s Building (3543 18th St). The five storey building details the contributions of women through time and around the world. Clarion Alley is another culmination of colour, a cluster of murals, from totally different thematic points and the murals are in the constant state of flux. Located on a back alley, it can feel a bit rough and smelly so we skipped it but if you want to see the art works, I would recommend coming during the day.

Mission food scene

Mission has more restaurants per capita than anywhere else in the city. Its deep Latin roots mean this is an optimal spot to grab cheap burritos, juicy tortas, Peruvian pollo a la brasa and exquisite ceviche. Whether you are after new wave Latin restaurants with a modern twist, or traditional, no-frills places with floral tablecloths and colourful garlands, Mission will make you happy.

The neighbourhood’s current amalgam of influences is also reflected in the vibrant food scene. Many top chefs are now migrating in the area, and there are restaurants from all around the globe. Whatever your palate fancies and whatever the budget, expect to find it in Mission. As any hipster neighbourhood, Mission is really up the brewing game. The coffee scene is lively and new cafes are sprouting like mushrooms. If you rather pop for a cooling drink, you can easily start with mimosas and continue until the golden hours sipping high-end cocktails. Don't forget to sample local brews at Southern Pacific Brewing (620 Treat Ave), a cool, relaxed venue with industrial vibes just how we like it.

There are too many places to enjoy if you have only limited time, but here are some casual places I would recommend stopping by when in Mission:

Sightglass Coffee
3014 20th St

With only three shops in the city, Sightglass Coffee is a household name amidst coffee aficionados. We knew it from our first visit to San Francisco and as I still remembered the coffee with fondness, their Mission shop was a requisite visit. The cafe has a true neighbourhood feel: located on a pretty street away from the main drags of the ‘hood, there was a constant queue of locals grabbing morning brews whilst jogging or walking the babies.

Inside, the focal point is an auburn wooden coffee counter. With simple shelving and angular seating in the same auburn tone, the cafe has that specific mid-century modern feel. Soft yellow tinged lighting and tons of natural light from massive industrial windows make the space intimate and welcoming.

This is a working roaster and each cup is made with immaculate patience. The coffee was as good as I remembered from a few years back - if not better. While their flagship store in SoMa supplies other cafes in the city and beyond, here a vintage Probat roaster is used to create small batch coffee. And don’t forget to grab one of their flakey pastries too. I would especially recommend their pistachio and blackcurrant croissant - you will still dream about that weeks later.

Tartine Manufactory
600 Guerrero St

Tartine Bakery (600 Guerrero St) is a Mission institution whose philosophy is firmly ingrained in flavour and craft. This tiny bakery, with only a handful of tables, is so popular that throughout the day the queue is wrapping around the building. And so, Tartine Manufactory, a 10-minute walk from the Bakery, is an extension of the latter’s philosophy on a bigger scale.

I loved the industrial character of the space with high roofs, exposed pipes and high industrial windows. An open kitchen enabling a view of the bakers makes it an immersive experience. The furnishing is simple, dominated by pale wood, however, an array of paper lights add touches of funness.

Grains are the key ingredient here and everything on the menu revolves around them. We came early when it was easier - or possible - to get a table, and just indulged in some simple baked goods. The sourdough served with seasonal jam is crusty on the outside, chewy and flavoursome on the inside. The morning bun was incredibly tasty, almost gooey, with a crispy top coated in sugar and cinnamon with a hint of citrus. The coffee is not overlooked and is prepared with the same precision as the baked goods. I loved that Tartine Manufactory worked as a sophisticated restaurant but also as a chilled cafe where you can come with a book. In both cases you are treated with some incredible grains and very attentive service.

Four Barrel Coffee
375 Valencia St

One of the flagships of the coffee movement in the neighbourhood is Four Barrel Coffee (375 Valencia St). This local roastery supplies consciously sourced coffee to a handful of cafes around the city. The space is divided between a roastery at the back and a coffee area at the front. Their roasting approach is old-fashioned, human lead, using vintage German roasters.

The coffee was velvety, complex and finished with a good amount of milk. The robust taste was enhanced by beautiful earthy clay cups and saucers. Echoing the roasting approach, the space is old-fashioned and rustic, almost barn-like with high roofs and timber beams, chunky wooden tables and a central timber coffee bar. The open concept of the space, small tables and a big open entrance where people were standing emphasise this as a space for craft coffee and conversation.

Craftsman And Wolves
746 Valencia St

Craftsman And Wolves (746 Valencia St) cleverly combines sleek, modern patisserie with industrial coffee shop vibes. The place is tiny and narrow but the high roofs, straight lines and minimalist decor make the space feel bigger. Concrete floors, brick walls and metal fixtures enhance the industrial atmosphere.

The pastry lineup had sweet tiny bites with both French and Asian influences. There is also a good selection of savoury items for those with a less sweet tooth; The Rebel Within, a savoury Parmesan muffin with an oozing egg in the middle, is one of their most popular options. I personally prefer flakey pastries or humble cinnamon buns with my coffee, but this is a good option when you fancy something small and delicate that you need to eat with a tiny fork. We managed to get a coveted table by a window that offered a good vantage point of the neighbourhood’s trend-setters.

Media Noche
3465 19th St

It’s no secret that some of the tastiest dishes come from food trucks. And when a brick-and-mortar eatery has a food truck, you get a feeling of the kind of plates they serve: messy, tasty, casual. And this is exactly what the tiny corner eatery Media Noche was.

There are an array of Latin eateries in the neighbourhood, and Media Noche is spreading the Cuban love through some of the most beloved street foods from La Habana. They specialise in Cuban sandwiches but you can also find empanadas, coconut slaw, or rice bowls topped with meats and salsas on their tiny but refreshing menu. I would recommend El Cubano, a Cuban sandwich that I bet any carnivore would love. The juicy mojo pork is combined with smokey, salty ham, acidic pickles and smooth Swiss. It’s so messy, so juicy, so filling and proper naughty comfort food.

If the food is casual, the interiors are trendy, airy and light with decorative tiles, white wood panelling with turquoise accents dotted around. It is like the best of both worlds: eating street food but from the comfort of a pretty place. Sit by the window and watch the neighbourhood vibes whilst munching bites of Cuban love.

Burma Love
211 Valencia St

Burma Love was my introduction to Burmese cuisine. This is a hangout that seemed to attract groups of friends and couples, offering a casual, comfortable place with some upscale extras such as an innovative cocktail list and pare down aesthetics.

The menu is exciting with different Burmese curries, salads as well as rice and noodle dishes. I had Spicy Noodles with tofu, peanuts and eggs. I loved it so much; it was oozing flavours and different textures. The lovely waitress told me that the owners are Burmese and so all the dishes are authentic and carefully curated. The only minus would be that there are no small side dishes; they are all big plates. However, I left so happy, full and with a great first impression of Burmese cuisine.

Ice cream

If ice cream is your thing, there are a few solid options to try some Cali flavours. Bi-Rite (3692 18th St) is a local institution, concocting some amazing handcrafted flavours that are a perfect accompaniment when heading to the Dolores Park opposite. Their vegan triple chocolate ice cream was probably the creamiest vegan ice cream I have ever tried. Humphry Slocombe (2790 Harrison St) is a bit further from the main drags of the neighbourhood, but you can expect unusual flavours like malted chocolate, bourbon and chilli vanilla. Also, if you end up walking a bit too far, distracted by all the beautiful buildings, grab a cooling treat at Mitchell’s (688 San Jose Av). Although technically in the adjoining Noe Valley, this is another stable ice cream haunt that a local Mission resident recommended for me.

Ode to Mission

Mission is a colourful, eclectic neighbourhood where cultures rub shoulders. Although some of the larger socio-economic problems prevalent in San Francisco are evident here too, it’s a neighbourhood I always gravitated towards. The ubiquitous taquerias, small indie shops, eclectic architecture and almost small town feel make it a great place to spend a day or two just mooching around. Some would argue that the neighbourhood is best explored during the golden hour, but I think mornings are best to soak up the communal, tasty atmosphere. In any case, make sure you have an empty belly and comfy trainers to appreciate the neighbourhood to the fullest.