Seattle - Capitol Hill, urban feel with a small town soul

Sometimes it is easy to fall in love with one particular area of a city I am visiting. An area, or a neighbourhood that makes me feel happy and at home on many different levels. Seattle’s Capitol Hill is one of these love stories, and it ranks as one of my favourite neighbourhoods.

Capitol Hill covers a large area and so the demographics vary from one end to another. For many the neighbourhood is synonymous with vibrant, liberal, artistic atmosphere, music scene and gastronomic indulgence. The epicentre of this urbane, arty part of the city can be found around Pike/Pine Street. An amalgam of restaurants, cafes and some independent breweries are found here so it is a prime location to enjoy the eventide atmosphere. However, this part of the neighbourhood can be a bit grim and dodgy too, and has seen a decline in the past few years. For the very same reason, this is my least favourite part of the neighbourhood.

In contrast to the pulsating corners, Capitol Hill is also unbelievably calm with big parks, wooded hills and natural trails. This is where I felt the happiest in the neighbourhood. Volunteer Park (1247 15th Ave E) is a local hangout, offering walking trails, picnic spots, culture and views. Interlaken Park, a densely wooded area is another beloved local sanctuary. The idyllic, leafy residential streets offer a real taste of the Pacific Northwest craftsman architecture and spots with expansive views of the mountains and Lake Washington. And, quintessential to Seattle, you can even find charming hidden coffee shops and eateries in the residential areas.

Coffee scene

Seattle has year after year been voted as the top coffee hub in the US, often alternating the first position with the West Coast fellow Portland. Although all the neighbourhoods have their fair share, Capitol Hill is brim-full of places to get caffeinated. Wherever you walk in the neighbourhood, the chances of finding a good caffeine refill station in the close vicinity are high. Roasting is taken as an art form and in the best places every cup is made with slow perfection. For me these cafes were the optimal places to hang out for a while, enjoy people-watching and soak up the local atmosphere. Here are some of my favourites for a mean cup of Joe:

General Porpoise Coffee and Doughnuts
1020 E. Union Street

Despite Capitol Hill being full of creative cafes and bakeries, I always seem to gravitate towards General Porpoise. Maybe it’s the airy decor and calm atmosphere, or simply the fact that I have a soft spot for fresh doughnuts. Either way, I have always had a ball here.

These are just how the doughnuts should be; chewy, soft, sweet and with lots of filling. Some flavours are available daily whilst others rotate seasonally. Apple jam, Italian plums and their staple favourite custard have all hit the right chords for me. Chunky mugs of well made coffee complement the sweet treats, and pour overs and cold brew are on the menu too.

Although located close to the crazy epicentre of the neighbourhood, it always feels relaxed and calm here. The white and pale wood Scandi aesthetics are combined with tiny bold splashes of pink and baby blue. The light-filled unit is split into two levels: the ground floor is good for people watching and daydreaming, while the calm mezzanine is covered with laptops and notebooks. Thankfully General Porpoise is not too close to me, otherwise I would have a sugar coated face on a weekly basis.

Porchlight Coffee and Records
1517 14th Ave

Porchlight Coffee and Records (1517 14th Ave) is a small café with a big soul. With an unassuming front, you could easily walk past it, which would be a shame as this locale is all about good solid brews, vinyls and great background music.

Herkimer Coffee, a local roaster, provides the beans and the end product is created by locally made Synesso espresso machine. Add some friendly baristas to this mix and you are rewarded with stellar coffee. Mine was smooth and with notes of toffee and green apple. There is a tiny selection of baked goods if you're craving for a little sugar fix. But essentially, it’s all about coffee and music here.

The space is fairly compact, but this is the kind of locale I like: light, open, and with minimal furnishing. The teak pastry cabinetry and a mid-century modern leather sofa give that timeless 60s elegance whilst raw materials such as plywood tables and retro moulded plastic chairs add splashes of casual pop-up bar charm. There is a well curated collection of vinyls for sale so grab a hard-to-find record whilst getting your caffeine fix. Simplicity in terms of coffee as well as decoration is the key here, and it really works.

Volunteer Park Cafe
1501 17th Ave E

Volunteer Park Cafe is a proper neighbourhood retreat. Located in an old yellow wooden house in a quiet residential area, it blends in with the surrounding family houses. With massive floor to ceiling bay windows, the space is bathed in light; this abundance of light is one of the main reasons why I keep returning here.

VPC is all about homemade baked goods. I have had many glorious treats here; some of the most scrumptious dark chocolate babkas, earthy stratas and homemade cakes. The coffee is equally good, but I recommend ordering smaller cups for that extra little kick to balance the sweet treats. For savoury taste buds, don’t miss their avocado sourdough that has a big pile of green goodness, or go early to enjoy a breakfast bap oozing cheese and salty bacon.

VPC is also a pantry and a bottle shop so whilst getting your coffee, grab a jar of exclusive tahini, cinnamon snickerdoodles or a few cans of local hazies. There is also a small selection of gift and home items. This really is one of my favourite Seattle haunts simply as it is an equal mixture of comfortable rustic and stylish modern, in the kind of nostalgic wooden milieu I love about Seattle.

Oddfellows Cafe + Bar
1525 10th Ave

Located in one of the most vibrant and arty - even dodgy - areas of the city, Oddfellows Cafe + Bar could not feel any further from it. The farmhouse style is a dominating concept with pantry shelving, worn hardwood floors, black iron fans, farm tables and benches. 90% of their beautifully rustic decor is recycled and repurposed. I liked the diversity of the clientele too; young urbanites, solo newspaper readers, families.

The coffee is packed with robust flavour and is very smooth and easy to drink. I’ve always liked their tried-and-true breakfast plates, however, on my last visit their usually substantial avo toast was very disappointing with a very heavy bread ratio versus minimal avocado. Whether this was a one-off or not, I would still recommend popping in for a great overall experience and farmhouse aesthetics in this otherwise crazy part of the city. Maybe next time I will play safe and order a coffee and a housemade cake, or perhaps an espresso-martini that the waitresses were dishing out even at 9am.

Analog Coffee
235 Summit Ave E

Analog Coffee is the place to go if you want to see the ‘cool folks’ grabbing their morning brews. With a constant queue of locals grabbing their boosters, you can feel this is a key hangout in the neighbourhood’s coffee scene.

With an unassuming front, it’s a surprise to find a space that is filled with light, newspapers, vinyl records and furnishing that doesn't come from one set. The casual, old patina of the place immediately feels warm, cosy and inviting; and perhaps also very hip.

Using rotating local beans, the coffee is the main reason to venture here. It had great notes and a real kick, but I wish it had been a bit creamier - perhaps they use lighter milk for a lighter texture. There are a handful of pastries and scones from a local Macrina bakery, but if you fancy something healthy and filling, the sister company b-side foods next door offers delicious savoury accompaniment for your coffee.

Fuel Coffee and Books
610 19th Ave E

I love the combination of coffee and bookshops. They both have that specific fragrance you’ll get the minute you walk in; unread pages, freshly roasted beans, woody, earthy aroma. Fuel Coffee and Books is a beloved local hangout that has merged these two spheres and created an atmosphere great for reading and working. Maybe it’s the carefully curated books, big bay windows facing the street or the mellow background music that make the place feel very serene.

My latte was smooth with notes of brown sugar and dates. Perhaps it could have been a bit stronger but there is always the option of a robust flat white. They have a handful of seasonal specialities and whilst flavoured drinks is not my thing they actually sounded pretty creative. Located on a pretty road a bit further from the main drags of the city, Fuel Coffee has a local feel where you equally see parents popping in with their children and kites, dog walkers, and bookworms immersed in their books. If you’ve just finished the last page, grab a new book from the shelves while enjoying your pick-me-up.

Starbucks Reserve
1124 Pike St.

I am probably a bit mean to say I really dislike Starbucks. But I’ve never been keen on their coffee nor the dated, bland and passionless interiors to be brutally honest. But, I found a Starbucks that surprisingly, I kind of enjoyed. One that could not feel any further from the standard aesthetics and drinks.

Starbucks Reserve is a space for roasting and experimenting. On entering the massive space, your eyes are drawn to gigantic copper roasting facilities, exposed copper pipes and industrial elements. Open fire, warm lighting and wooden fixtures add touches of the Pacific Northwest cabin theme.

The coffee was easily the best I’ve had at Starbucks. Served in a proper chunky mug on a wooden tray, you can appreciate notes of peach and hazelnut. A massive flip screen displays information about different single origin beans and blends on offer. You can also forget the usual unappetising cakes as there is a mouthwatering selection of flakey pastries and focaccias from Princi, a renowned Italian bakery.

Would I come again? Probably not as I like to support more local, smaller, independent businesses. It also felt too busy for my liking. Nevertheless, if you want to visit the roots of this Seattle institution now known even in the rural corners of the globe, skip the Original Starbucks at Pike Place Market and pop by Reserve instead. The open fireplace and the dominance of warm wood give that PNW feel which is something you probably would not expect to see in Starbucks, nor a coffee that is slowly and immaculately made.

Food scene

Capitol Hill boasts some of the most unique restaurants in Seattle, bristling with creative ventures, pop up bars and new waves. In terms of global gastronomic offerings, this is one of the most versatile ‘hoods I've visited.

For a casual bite with local appeal there are some great food markets in Capitol Hill. Smaller than Seattle’s landmark Pike Place Market, they feel more relaxed and less touristy. Melrose Market (1531 Melrose Ave), set in an old building with exposed brick walls and timber beams, is an urban open market that hosts a small but well curated collection of small food and retail units to peruse. Another food enclave is The Chophouse Row (1424 11th Ave). It’s an eclectic mix of historic industrial buildings and mews combined with new loft terraces. Interesting eateries, little shops and urban co-working spaces make this a gathering spot where you can grab breakfast from the early hours or sit on their secluded patio or roof terrace enjoying after-sunset drinks.

Here are some of my favourite neighbourhood joints to check:

Plum Bistro
1429 12th Ave

There seems to be a big plant-based movement in Seattle. Although I am not vegan, I find it fascinating how some chefs create typical omnivorous dishes with plant-based ingredients. Plum Bistro (1429 12th Ave) is an innovative, delicious, fully vegan restaurant located at Chophouse Row. While the decor might feel clinical with cement and glass walls, the plates are colourful, nutritious and soul-warming.

The eclectic and exciting menu is breaking stereotypes that vegan food is boring. I opted for a Jamaican Wrap that included spiced grilled tofu, an abundance of flavoursome veggies, homemade purees and pickles in a rustic, crispy wrap. It was oozing with flavours and textures. I had planned an evening meal but the huge wrap filled me up for the whole day, proving that fully vegan food can be hearty and satisfying.

Taurus Ox
903 19th Ave E

I discovered Taurus Ox when it was still located at the edge of Cap Hill; it felt like popping into a tiny casual food market, where food was prepped and enjoyed in a relaxed manner, all in one tiny space. Since then, this Laotian restaurant has moved to a bigger unit, to even a more picturesque location in Capitol Hill. I was happy to witness that whilst the space felt ten times bigger and more organised, the menu and the atmosphere remained the same.

The atmosphere is casual, the background music is cool and the chefs are wearing beanie hats instead of white toque blanches. You get a feel this is a Laotian restaurant through a few selected household ornaments and other knick-knacks, but it doesn't feel tacky. Otherwise, this is a very CapHill-like hipster milieu.

The kitchen dishes out some incredible Laotian plates, all tweaked with tons of complex flavours. The menu is tiny, circling around ten key plates such as Laotian sausage, beef Laap and Thom Khem. Don’t pass up on the Phad Lao or Khao Poon that are full of explosive flavours with chewy, sweet noodles, herbs and crunchy vegetables.

Monsoon
615 19th Ave E

If your soul craves for deep Vietnamese flavours, fresh herbs, pickled veggies and super crispy rolls, Monsoon is the address to remember. The mouthwatering menu is traditional Vietnamese, but the ingredients are locally sourced as much as possible from the Pacific Northwest. Whilst the atmosphere is casual, cloth napkins, immaculate hospitality and an adjoining cocktail bar add touches of fine dining experience.

The lemongrass chicken bowl with glass noodles and fermented veggies had so many different elements but it worked in perfect harmony. If you are stopping for a quick but nutritious lunch, the curry tofu rice bowl with coconut is soothing, tempting soul food. Remember to ask for the optional soft boiled eggs on top - they were so tasty that the lovely waitress brought me some extras. And most definitely order their famous crispy rolls and be mesmerised how humble rolls can be this good, full of flavour in every crackly bite.

Rocket Taco
602 19th Ave

I've had some of the best tacos in my life on the West Coast, mainly around SoCal, but I did not expect to get this good tacos this high in the north. Rocket Taco is a casual taqueria dishing up some great tacos, burritos and margaritas, conveniently located in one of my favourite pockets of the city.

Patrons can choose between traditional and deluxe tacos; the latter comes with special touches like guacamole or lime crema. The only minus is that the tacos come in a set of three and you cannot mix and match. Perfect if your tacos are as juicy and tender as mine were, but if you are not a fan you have to suck it up. You order at the counter, pick up your sauces and the food comes out fast - but it doesn't feel like a fast food place. The atmosphere is warm and rustic, they make some tasty margaritas and if you are lucky to get a table by the windows this is a perfect spot to watch the slow moments on 19th Avenue.

Kin Dee
2301 E Madison St

I enjoy restaurants that feel modern and sophisticated but that equally are so relaxed that it doesn’t seem out of place if you want to read a book whilst waiting for your food. Kin Dee, a modern Thai eatery, was one of these places where I felt at ease and happy, immersed in my book whilst waiting for my Thai goodness.

The menu has many comforting Thai street food classics, but as a big plus, it has many slightly more novel Thai dishes than the usual green curries and pad thais. I had some silky yet crispy gyozas and a big bold plate of pad see ew. The silky, thick noodles were a new revelation for me. Their veggie gyoza were silky on the top, crispy at the bottom, and very moreish but probably not quite as nice as what I have had in Asia. The space is airy, lofty, and for better or for worse - depending how you like it - you don’t find any Thai props that would ‘transport’ you to the country. But, when the flavours are on point you don’t need them anyway.

B-side Foods
421 E Thomas St

If your body and mind need a salty injection of a messy breakfast bap, B-side Foods is a tiny hole-on-the-wall that serves healthy, easy and tasty breakfasts and lunches. With just a handful of tables and a few bar stools, there is something quaint about the place; sweet pastel tiles, worn floors and old vintage chairs. The tiny galley kitchen is exposed where the staff are busy cooking, fermenting and pureeing.

There is a limited menu of delicious, nutritious and wholesome sarnies, bowls and juices. My humble egg and mushroom muffin was elevated to a different level thanks to homemade fermented veggies and spicy sauce. They don't do espresso based drinks but customers were bringing in their cuppas from Analog Coffee (235 Summit Ave E), a sister cafe next door, offering that pick-me-up with the bap or a good visit on its own right afterwards.

Shopping in Capitol Hill

Capitol Hill holds an eclectic collection of lifestyle and novelty shops. In the area around East Pike Street and East Pine Street, often considered as the epicentre of Capitol Hill, small boutiques and bookstores butt up with bike shops and artisanal accessories. It’s not cheap, but fun. A must visit for bookworms is The Elliott Bay Book Company (1521 10th Ave), one of the best curated bookshops I've ever visited. Other cool shops included Glasswing + Greenhouse (1525 Melrose Ave), Aesop (321 E Pine St), Rapha Seattle (301 E Pine St), Butter Home (1531 Melrose Ave) and various units at Chophouse Row (1424 11th Ave).

Apart from the epicentre, Capitol Hill has various specialty shops dotted around the vast neighbourhood. My special pick would be Station 7 (400 15th Ave), set in an old red brick fire station with beautiful collections of home decor, art, and stationery. Kobo (814 E Roy St), a Japanese gallery and design shop is another small local business I repeatedly like to visit for artwork, stationery, and Japanese home decorations. 19th Avenue (area roughly between Republican St and Aloha St) on a leafy residential area, has a small town feel with a handful of small shops. Visit Cone & Steiner General (532 19th Avenue East), an urban convenience store and deli that stocks local products, craft beers, fresh flowers as well as artsy gifts. It is a perfect place to fill your picnic hamper when going to the parks nearby. Fuel Coffee and Books (610 19th Ave E) has that always winning combo of books and caffeine, and AMcE Creative Arts next door (612 19th Ave E) will fulfil your art fix.

Ode to Capitol Hill

Capitol Hill has an urban feel but equally a distinctively small town soul. And it is this diversity and an amalgam of different options that keep pulling me in. Whether you feel outdoorsy, hungry or in need of caffeine, it is all here in Capitol Hill. I specifically like that it has many corners that are more frequented by locals than visitors. And it is these small things that made Capitol Hill special for me; sipping coffees in charming cafes while watching locals going about their daily life, walking lazily around the neighbourhood, and simply enjoying the views of the mountains and the Pacific Northwest wooden architecture.